Located in the heart of London’s Soho, family-run Italian restaurant 40 Dean Street has been captivating diners for nearly 15 years, with the likes of Brad Pitt, Rupert Everett and members of the royal family among its devotees.
I had the pleasure of eating there some time ago – and can agree with Brad that their chicken salad is without equal. I was therefore delighted to learn that this beloved mainstay has a new addition to the family – 64 Old Compton Street.
So, when I found myself in the capital a few weeks back, I was eager to try 40’s new sibling for myself.
As I walked down one of the area’s most fashionable thoroughfares, it wasn’t difficult to spot the restaurant thanks to its bold red facade. The interior is half hidden from the street by a café curtain, making it intimate and a little decadent, not unlike Soho itself.
At first glance, the two restaurants, located just minutes from each other, are both characterised by their menu of thoughtfully crafted, purse-friendly dishes. However, where 40 has a pretty extensive menu, 64’s is much more succinct.
The highlight here really does have to be the homemade pasta selection. My pappardelle beef ragu was rich and indulgent – just the thing to brighten the mood on a rainy and decidedly chilly summer’s day. Although the dish was substantial, I couldn’t resist a side order of some devilishly moreish piadina bread with Parma ham, mozzarella, rocket and pesto. The pizzas smelt divine too, but I had no option but to save those for another visit.
As I was contemplating whether or not I could fit in some pistachio tiramisu, I espied owner Nima Safaei.
Nima, who gave up a career as a pharmacist to open 40 Dean Street in 2009 – and who still lives above the restaurant – is something of a local legend. Not only does he run a thriving business, but he’s friends with all his neighbours, a contributor to local charities and above all determined that this most charming and iconic of areas does not succumb to relentless gentrification.
Although obviously a very busy man, he was gracious enough to stop by my table for a quick chat. I asked him if he thought that opening two restaurants so close to one another might be a risk, but he tells me that although the two have much in common – competitive price points, authentic ingredients, generous portions and a joyful welcome – they are quite different in personality. As he explains, “40 is the urbane older brother who’s been around for a while and knows where the party’s at, while 64 is the cool little sister who’s new on the scene but intends to make her presence felt.”
What made him decide to open a new restaurant now? “Since 2009, the wonderful people of Soho have taken 40 Dean Street to their hearts, and many treat it like an extension of their home, office or hotel. But we were having to turn too many people away, so opening 64 Old Compton Street literally round the corner felt like the perfect solution.”
So, will there be a third Safaei outpost to savour on my next visit to London? “Absolutely not,” he laughs. “I think what we have now will do just fine.”
64 Old Compton Street, Soho, London W1D 4UQ
